Three Dogs in a Garden

Much of what I know about Japanese Maples comes from simple observation.

They are relatively slow growing. The little green leafed one I bought five years ago is practically the same size it was when I bought it!

My own little Japanese Maple

Japanese Maples turn the most fantastic colors each fall. Add in a little sunlight and

you have pure magic!

Looking over the fence to my neighbour's Japanese Maple.

Chen's garden in Milton, ON

It doesn't take much keen observation to note that Japanese Maples have a

dramatic presence in any garden.

Chen's garden

Tell me that this area of Chen's garden in Milton, ON would as pleasing if it weren't for the

large red Japanese Maple you see in the foreground!

Marion Jarvie's garden in Thornhill, ON

And it's not just the color of their leaves. The branches of a Japanese Maple sweep

upward, outward or cascade downward with such grace.

Private garden in Dartmouth, N.S.

Even in winter, there is a certain beauty in their bare limbs.

Private Garden, Mississauga, ON

Their overall shape can be quite elegant...

Marion Jarvie's garden in Thornhill, ON

or gnarly and sculptural.

Private garden in Toronto, ON

It seems that less is more when it comes to Japanese Maples. Just one is often enough.

Private garden, Toronto, ON. In the foreground is Acer shirasawanum 'Aureum'

There are also pretty versatile. They are small sized trees that that can work in almost sized garden; even a modest one. (The majority of Japanese Maples grow to 6-15 feet in height, with some reaching as high as 30 feet. True dwarf Japanese Maples can grow as little as 3ft.)

Acer shirasawanum 'Aureum'

Japanese Maples do however, have a few drawbacks. They can be really pricy.

Demand seems to have brought the price down on a few common cultivars (Locally you pick up a small Japanese Maple for as little as $25 at Loblaws Garden Centres each spring).

But anything more unusual is likely to cost you are pretty penny.

Acer campestre 'Carnival' in a private garden in Toronto, ON

And more interesting options like this Acer campestre 'Carnival' (above) are not always readily available. Often you need to track them down at speciality nurseries.

Acer campestre 'Carnival': The foliage of 'Carnival' emerges with pink and cream and gradually becomes green with white margins. 'Carnival' has a spreading habit and is slow growing (8 feet in 10 yrs) It needs a sheltered spot and is best suited to shade. 'Carnival' likes evenly moist, well-drained soil. USDA Zones 4a-8b.

Acer palmatum 'Koto No Ito' in Marion Jarvie's garden in Thornhill, ON

Possibly the best way to find a particular Japanese Maple is to search for it online.

Acer palmatum 'Koto No Ito': 'Koto No Ito' means harp strings. This cultivar is also known as the Dancing Monkey Tree because of the way its leaves dance in the wind. 'Koto No Ito' turns a lovely yellow with a hint of orange in fall. Mature size:10 year size is 5 to 6 ft. Width is 3-5 ft. USDA Zones 6a-9b.

I happened upon these four Japanese Maples while poking around in a local nursery called Lost Horizons. Unfortunately for me, they are guaranteed hardy only to Zone 5.

They are starting in the top left:

1. Acer palmatum 'Butterfly': A variegated cultivar with bluish-green leaves edged with white.

2. Acer palmatum dissectum 'Seiryu': Lacy green foiage that is red tipped.

3. Acer palmatum 'Grandma Ghost': Cream and pale green leaves with pink veins (this image shows its fall colors).

4. Acer palmatum 'Beni otake': A vigorous upright tree with a bamboo silhouette. It has large purple-red leaves and strap-like leaf lobes.

A Japanese Maple in the Lost Horizons Nursery Display Garden

Linking my last two points: Japanese Maples are an investment, so you will want to take note of the hardiness of the maple you are considering buying before you make your purchase.

In northern climate zones like mine (6b), you will also want to make sure your maple is sited in a protected location. Even the more hardy varieties of Japanese Maples will often suffer winter damage here or perish mysteriously. I had one little red Japanese Maple for a number of years, and then one winter, it up and died.

Acer palmatum dissectum 'Viridis'

Here are some general notes on growing Japanese Maples that I have gathered from a variety of sources:

Japanese Maples are categorized according to leaf type. There are two main groups of Japanese Maples. Probably the most familiar Japanese Maple is Acer palmatum, with its cascading branches of finally cut leaves in 5 to 9 parts. A second group is Acer Japonicum, with leaves that have 7-11 fingerlike parts. There is also a third group of trees: Acer shirasawanum.

Toronto Botanical Gardens, Toronto, ON

Site selection: It's hard to imagine, but try to consider a Japanese Maples's mature size when you site them. Select a sheltered spot where your tree will not be buffeted by strong winds.

Sandy loam with some organic matter is ideal, but Japanese Maples will tolerate a wide range of soils. A soil with too much organic matter however, can actually affect the desired coloration of the leaves.

In terms of light requirements, a general rule is to choose a sunny spot with afternoon shade. Leaf color can also serve as a useful guide to help you determine just how much sun is appropriate for your Japanese Maple. (Note: The amount of light will affect your maple's leaf color.) Red and variegated leaves need a respite from the hot afternoon sun. Green varieties tolerate sun best, but still can be scorched by too much sun. Golden leaves need a bit of sun to keep their color from turning green.

Japanese Maple in Chen's garden near Milton, ON

Planting: The best time to plant a Japanese Maple is in early spring and in the fall, when the tree's roots have to best chance to get established. (Note to self: Avoid clearance sales mid-summer, when any new tree will have to struggle with heat and possible drought. It's a case of false economy!)

To plant your new maple, dig a hole bigger than the root ball and back fill with 1 part peat moss to 3 parts soil. Water it well and mulch the area to keep the roots cool and ensure water retention. Use only moderate amounts of fertilizer such as a transplanter with a ratio of 5-15-5.

Care: Japanese Maples like moderate moisture and good drainage. Extreme drought can affect foliage color of red maples in particular. Once established, it is a good idea to apply a light fertilizer in early spring (4-12-8 fertilizer or 15-30-15 water soluable mixture both work).

Japanese Maple in Chen's garden near Milton, ON

Pruning: Any major pruning should be done before the leaves unfurl and the tree is dormant. Never prune in spring when the sap is rising. Lighter pruning can be done in Juneafer the first major flush of growth takes place. Ensure your pruners are razor sharp for a good clean cut. Begin by pruning away any dead ot diseased branches. It is also a good idea to cut away any scrubby growth or twigs that cross. After that, it comes down to aesthetics. Stand back from your tree and consider every cut carefully. Never use wound dressings or black sealing paint, as they lock disease in rather than keeping it out.

Diseases: Aphids, leaf-cutters and rollers may appear as pests in spring. If that happens, seek an organic control at your local nursery. Mildew can be a problem where there is high humidity.

Marion Jarvie's garden in Thornhill, ON

Winter protection: Japanese Maples do best in USDA zones 6-8. They love the moderate climate of pacific northwest. In hotter areas, they will require aftternoon shade and frequent water. It is interesting to note that the Korean Maple, Acer pseudosieboldianum is a full zone more cold hardy than the most common Japanese Maple, Acer palmatum.

It is recommended that you wrap any new Japanese Maple in burlap for the first three years in a garden.Keeping it watered before the first frost will help guard against water loss in winter. An extra heavy layer of mulch will also help portect the root system during the cold winter months.

Please share your own experience with growing Japanese Maples.

This week I return in a series of photographs to the Toronto Botanical Gardens.

Nature's Garden is an area of the TBG devoted largely to native plants.

Goldenrod

My picture makes it look modest in size, but in reality, this was a very grand urn.

Begonia 'Yadev' (Million Kisses)

Coleus, Solenostemon scutellarioides 'Rustic Orange'

Rudbeckia subtomentosa 'Little Henry': Rudbeckia subtomentosa or Sweet Coneflower is native plant found in an area that runs from the midwestern states into Texas. It is a tall, upright plant with quilled yellow flowers with brown centres. 'Little Henry' blooms from midsummer into fall and is attractive to butterflies. It will grow in a range of soils types and tolerates moist to fairly dry growing conditions. Full sun or light shade. Height: 80-90 cm (30-35 inches) Spread: 55-60 cm (20-23 inches) USDA Zones: 4-9

The Beryl Ivey Knot Garden is a contemporary twist on a traditional knot garden.

Great Blue Lobelia or Cardinal Flower, Lobelia syphilitica and Lobelia syphilitica 'Alba'

A mix of cream and pink varieties of Echinacea.

A pretty pink Sedum for which I could not find an identification tag.

Tall white Nicotiana spills over the clipped hedges in the Knot Garden.

Nicotiana with Cone Flowers (Echinacea), Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) and a variegated Miscanthus in the background.

The small trial gardens at the TBG.

An unidentified cultivar of Agastache.

Gaillardia aristata 'Gallo Fire': 'Fire' has red-orange flowers on a compact mound of light green leaves. Full sun. This is a plant ideal for normal or sandy soil with dry growing conditions. Its hardiness is still being confirmed, but 'Fire' is likely to be hardy to zone 4. Height: 20-30 cm (10-12 inches) Spread: 30 cm (12 inches) USDA Zones 4-9.

A colorful mix that includes: Dipladenia, Mandevilla 'Rio', Guara, Guara lindheimeri 'Belleza Early Pink', Anise-scented Sage, Salvia guaranitica 'Black and Blue', Greek Basil, Ocimum x citriodorum 'Pesto Perpetual', Trailing Petunia, Petunia "Surfinia Heavenly Blue',Fan Flower, Pink Ivy Geranium, Pelargonium 'Balcon Pink', Spurge, Euphorbia hypericifolia 'Breathless White' and Curly Parsley.

Pelargonium 'Balcon Pink'

Salvia guaranitica 'Black and Blue': has deep cobalt blue flowers and is a tender perennial that blooms from July to frost. Full sun to light shade in rich, loamy soil. Height: 60-90 cm (20-35 cm), Spread: 60-90 cm (20-35 cm). This cultivar must be propagated from cuttings. Hardy Zones: 8-10.

Up shortly are a couple of long overdue posts on my own garden. I also am working on a blog post with more of my experiments with drying flowers.

Snow began to fall last Sunday bringing the 2014 gardening season

come to an abrupt conclusion for me.

What a spring, summer and fall it has been in my garden! What is that oh-so-familar quote? Change is the only constant.

Three big trees came down in June and suddenly there was sun where previously there was shade.

The view along the picket fence last summer.

In August the city redid the sidewalk at the front of the house making it wider. I figure that I lost six to twelve inches of garden along the white picket fence. The workers who relaid the concrete sidewalk slabs were respectful of my garden, but the plants still suffered horribly. My late summer display of blooms was not at all up to its usual splendour.

Sadly, I don't think it will ever look this good again!

My picture taking in late summer and fall was spotty at best.

Here is a sampling of those images. It is a bit of a long post, but I figure you will only read up on the plants that happen to catch your eye.

Phlox paniculata 'Nicky', yellow Rudbeckia, Caryopteris divaricata 'Snow Fairy'

and Agastache 'Blue Fortune'

Late August

Phlox paniculata 'Nicky': Nicky's deep plum color makes it a great companion for late summer Rudbeckia and Echinacea. Full sun or light shade. Height: 90-120 cm (36-48 inches), Spread: 60-90 cm (24-36 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Phlox paniculata 'David's Lavender': I think this has become one of my favourite varieties of phlox. The flowers are a lovely lavender-mauve. Full sun or light shade (mine is in light shade). Average to moist growing conditions. Height: 90-120 cm (36-48 inches), Spread: 60-90 cm (24-36 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Agastache 'Blue Fortune': Height: 60-75 cm (20-30 inches), Spread: 45- 60 cm (18-23 inches). Full sun or light shade. Normal, sandy or clay soil are fine. Average, dry or moist growing conditions. Zones: USDA 2-9

White Joe Pye Weed, Eupatorium altissimum 'Prairie Jewel': is pretty, but unlike the pink forms of Joe Pye Weed, 'Prairie Jewel' flops on rather weak stems. As you can see here in this picture, 'Prairie Jewel'ended up leaning heavily on the Agastache in front of it. Next year I must remember to support it properly. 'Prairie Jewel' blooms later than the pink varieties I grow and is a welcome addition to my fall garden. Height: 60-90 cm (24-36 inches), Spread: 60- 90 cm (24-36 inches). Full sun. Average to moist growing conditions. Zones: USDA 4-9.

Mid-September

Phlox paniculata 'Creme de Menthe': blooms a little later than many of the other varieties of phlox in my garden. One of its best features are its green leaves with cream colored margins. Full sun or light shade. Height: 90-120 cm (36-48 inches), Spread: 60-90 cm (24-36 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Agastache 'Blue Fortune' in late September.

Agastache now brown and dry at the end of October

Joe Pye Weed, Eupatorium dubium' Little Joe'

September

Dwarf Perennial Sunflower, Helianthus 'Happy Days': I think it is about time I cut this poor plant some slack. Though I like to experiment with new plants, I am always a bit apprehensive when a perennial is unfamiliar. It's a case of once bitten twice shy: I have enough problems already with aggressive plants like lily of the valley and goutweed.

I was suspicious the moment I removed 'Happy Days' from its nursery pot and saw long white roots wrapping around the root ball. Worried that it might be yet another vigorous spreader, I planted it in one of my raised beds where it could only travel so far. It has been in the garden for 3 years now and seems fairly well behaved. It has not spread wildly, but it does seem to shift its location slightly each year; preferring to move to a fresh spot each spring.

Height: 55-60 cm (22-24 inches), Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches). My plant is in light shade. Average to moist well-drained soil. Water well until established. It blooms for at least a month when deadheaded. Zones: USDA 4-9

Mid-September

Rudbeckia triloba 'Prairie Glow': This plant is relatively new to my garden. When it came up this spring, I did not recognize the stems or leaves and almost pulled it out as a weed! But the neat plum colored stems made me hesitate and I am glad I held off.

This is a new selection of Rudbeckia with bi-color blooms. It is a short-lived perennial with a tendency to reseed itself as it did in my garden. It is easy to grow in average or moist, well-drained soil. It is tall, and a bit floppy, so it is good to give it some support. Full sun. Height: 90-120 cm ( 36-48 inches), Spread: 60-90 cm (24-36 inches) . USDA Zones 3-10.

Rusty wondering when I am going to stop taking pictures and go inside to get his breakfast.

Mid-September

Anemone hupehensis 'Prince Henry': After a few failed attempts, I think I have finally found a good spot for growing anemones. My plant is just a year old, but is doing well. I have high hopes for lots more flowers next summer. 'Prince Henry'likes rich fairly moist soil and part shade. Height 60-80 cm (20-30 inches), Spread: 60-90 cm (20-35 inches) USDA Zones 5-9.

Hollyhock Mallow, Malva sylvestris 'Purple Satin': This was an impulse purchase made this spring. I have always admired the self-seeded Mallows growing wild in the neighbourhood. They flower long after most other plants have succumbed to frost. The Mallows growing in wild patches here are relatively compact, so I was somewhat unprepared for the monstrous size of 'Purple Satin'. This plant reaches 3-4 feet! Even a tomato cage could not keep it upright.

Malva sylvestris 'Purple Satin': is a biennial that likes to reseed itself. Maroon flowers appear in mid-summer and continue well into the fall. Full sun. Height: 150 cm ( 3-4'), Spread 45-60 cm (18-24 inches). Average to moist water needs. USDA Zones: 4-9.

Note: I also grew some Mallow from seed and learned the hard way that Malva sylvestris seedlings hate being moved, so plant it where you want it to grow.

September

Phlox paniculata 'Bright Eyes': Full sun or light shade. Average to moist growing conditions. Height: 60-75 cm (20-30 inches), Spread: 45-60 cm (18-24 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Sorry, this is one of my oldest clumps of phlox and I am not sure of the cultivar.

I have to ask: Does this....

...look anything like this?

I added Rosa 'Palmengarten Frankfurt' this spring, but the blooms don't look anything near as nice as the ones on this fine specimen at the Royal Botanical Garden in Hamilton. Even the shape of the flowers seems slightly off.

Perhaps time will tell.

I also a number of groundcover roses to my raised beds and a Hybrid Musk rose

I have long admired called 'Belinda'.

Sedum spectabile 'Neon'with another clump of Agastache 'Blue Fortune'

Sedum spectabile 'Neon': This Sedum has light green foliage and magenta-pink flowers. Full sun. Like all Sedums, it is attractive to butterflies. Height: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches) Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches). USDA Zones: 2-9

Sedum 'Pure Joy': has a low, rounded mound of blue-green foliage and pale pink flowers. Grow it in poor to average well-drained soil. Full sun. Height: 20-30 cm (10-12 inches) Spread: 45-50 cm (18-20 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Early October

One of the things I love about Sedum is the way to changes color as the weather gets colder. I am not certain if this is Sedum 'Autumn Fire' or Sedum 'Autumn Joy'.

Lobelia x speciosa 'Dark Crusader' and Lobelia siphilitica 'Alba'

Last year I added three different varieties of Lobelia. They all bloomed for the first time this summer- not a spectacular display, but it is bound to get better with time.

Great Blue Lobelia or Cardinal Flower, Lobelia siphilitica

Ironweed, Vernonia gigantea: is a skyscraper of a plant. Fairly new to my garden, there were exactly three stems crowned with purple flowers this summer. Height: 180-210 cm,

Spread: 90-100 cm Full sun. It prefers moist soil, but my plant has average moisture only.

Pokeweed, Phytolacca americana: One final tall perennial. This is Pokeweed a plant native to northern and central North America. I have one plant that is about 6' or 7' tall. When they first appear in spring, the young shoots of the plant are edible (often refereed to as "poke sallet").

Parts of the mature plant and berries however, are poisonous (so not a great plant choice if you have kids). Pokeweed has outrageously colored magenta stems and berries that hang like grapes. At first the berries are green in color and then magenta. As they mature, they darken to plum and finally become shinny black.

A word of warning: I grow this Pokeweed because I love tall plants and I think the stems and black berries are neat. I am really, really careful not to let the berries fall to the ground. Each little berry has tons of seeds. What is a cool plant could easily become a big problem if you are not really careful.

Fall was lovely here, but it disappeared far too quickly. So many chores remained unfinished!

Oh well. There is always next year.

Have yourself a wonderful weekend!

Basic evergreen holiday wreaths are available here at most grocery and big box stores.

One of the best thing about these store-bought wreaths is that all the hard work is done for you.

They're also affordable- I picked this one up at Walmart for $12.98.

But, they are a little ho-hum.

So for fun, I gave myself a little assignment: 5 ways to dress up and personalize a basic, store-bought evergreen wreath.

The first thing I did was to give my wreath a bit of a haircut. As you can see, it was looking a bit like a shaggy dog! You could barely see through the centre.

The first design I came up with was themed on birds and the color blue.

How-to in a nutshell: (For more detailed instructions and a materials list, click this link.) Insert some boxwood sprigs, dogwood branches and red berries into your store bought wreath and allow them to catch in the mix of evergreens.

Take some white craft paint and dry-brush "snow" onto the pinecones and branches where snow would naturally collect. Once dry, use florist's wire to tie the pinecones into the wreath.

Remove the rope hanger from a little cardboard birdhouse ornament, poke a hole in the bottom and inserted a florist's pic. Add a dab of hot glue to secure the pic onto the birdhouse.

Insert the birdhouse pic into the wreath and allow it to catch in the evergreens. Clip 3 bluejays and 3 little bluebirds onto the dogwood and berry branches (I found these at Michaels craft store).

Finally, attached a blue bow with some florist's wire.

My next idea was to use a mix of fruit and berries to add a little pop of color to all that green.

How-to in a nutshell: (For a more detailed how-to and a material list, click this link.) Take some white craft paint to dry-brush "snow" onto the pinecones. Once dry, use florist's wire to tie them into the wreath.

Insert some boxwood sprigs to add a some leafy texture.

Next, add in red and orange berry branches and allow them to catch in the mix of evergreens.

Apply a dab of hot glue to the bottom of the yellow and red mini-apples (I found these at Michaels craft store). Insert a florist's pic into the hot glue and hold it for a minute or so until the glue sets. Insert the finished apple pics into the wreath.

Attach a red bow with florist's wire.

I think roses are a lovely holiday flower. This wreath combines white roses with red berries.

How to in a nutshell: (For a more detailed how-to and a materials list, click this link.) Take some white craft paint to dry-brush "snow" onto the pinecones. Once dry, use florist's wire to tie them into the wreath.

Insert some boxwood sprigs red berries into the store bought wreath and allowed them to catch in the mix of evergreens.

I bought a stem of little white silk roses and a stem of white forsythia (I found these at Michaels craft store). I cut the large stem into a number of shorter branches and inserted these branches into my wreath.

I did the same for a stem of pearl berries and glittery gold eucalyptus (also found these at Michaels craft store)- cutting one large stem into several smaller branches.

I then added the smaller stems of pearl berries and glittery eucalyptus.

Finally, I fastened a white bow with some florist's wire.

My third wreath is inspired by the "Twelve Days of Christmas" song that has the refrain

"and a partridge in a pear tree".

Okay, this probably isn't a partridge, but it is close enough.

How to in a nutshell: (For a more detailed how-to and a materials list, click this link.) Take some white craft paint to dry-brush "snow" onto the pinecones. Once dry, use florist's wire to tie them into the wreath.

Insert some boxwood sprigs and red berries branches into your wreath and allow them to catch in the mix of evergreens.

Apply a dab of hot glue to the bottom of the yellow mini-pears (I found these at Michaels craft store). Insert a florist's pic into the hot glue and hold it for a minute or so until the glue sets.

Insert the finished pears pics into the wreath.

Gather three feathers together in your fingers. Hold them at the top of a florist's pic and wrap the fine wire around and around to create a feather pic. Insert several feather pics around the circumference of the wreath.

Clip on your partridge.

Attach a red bow with florist's wire.

I thought that my final wreath should have a garden theme- this is a garden blog afterall- so I decided to do a red ladybug wreath with a pretty plaid bow.

Insert some boxwood sprigs and red berries branches into wreath and allow them to catch in the mix of evergreens.

Take a single large stem of glittery eucalyptus (found at Michaels craft store) and cut it into a number of shorter branches. Insert the shorter eucalyptus branches into your wreath.

Take a large branch with gold glitter (found in the floral department at my local grocery store) and cut it into a number of shorter pieces. Add them into the wreath allowing them to catch in the evergreens.

Take the red wooden ladybugs (found in the craft section of my local Dollar store) and apply a dab of hot glue onto the back. Place them on the gold branches and hold them in place for a few seconds until the hot glue has set. Note: If you can't find ladybugs, festively colored butterflies might be fun (look for butterflies at Michaels)

Attach a plaid bow and jingle bells to the wreath with some florist's wire.

While I was working away making these holiday wreaths I came up with at least

five more themes...ah well, maybe next year!

Have a wonderful weekend!

Look at all those seeds just waiting for a ride on a summer breeze!

It's ironic: what is a success story for a weed can be a bit of a horror story

for the average gardener.

All that progeny just looking for the smallest opening-

that empty patch of soil in amongst all those fancy garden flowers!

Plants in the garden can sometimes seed prolifically too.

Let it slip your mind to cut back your chives in June and you may live to regret it!

Even though I am fairly vigilant, it seems I am forever

pulling out little chive seedlings.

Sunflowers seeds seem to work in league with backyard birds. I started with a few plants two

summers ago and now sunflowers are popping up all over the place.

Sadly other garden plants never seem to self-seed.

I'd be thrilled to find some Balloon flowers seedlings (Platycodon grandiflorus) sprouting along the white picket fence, but in all the years I have grown them, I haven't found a single one!

So this year I decided to collect the seeds and give them a helping hand.

Maybe if I give them a perfect growing conditions, they'll be more successful.

Seeds can be amazingly beautiful. These floss on these wildflower seeds is as light as air.

In amongst the wild yellow tansy, they sparkle in the sun.

On the other hand, these False Indigo (Baptisia) seeds come in rather

sinister looking packaging.

And these clematis seed heads make me think of hairy spiders.

They're kinda creepy don't you think?

It seems to me that the appearance of some seeds must be a matter of survival.

It is hard to believe that something this pretty...

...could become something this ugly.

But actually, it's a really clever strategy.
Who would want to eat something that looks this unappetizing?

It's foxgloves that have got me hooked on growing flowers from seeds.

They're biennial so you have to grow them the first summer to have flowers in the second.

Canterbury Bells

I have also fallen in love with biennial Canterbury Bells, annual Lavatera,
and the delicate white and blue flowers of Love-in-the Mist (Nigella).

This fall I have been harvesting seeds to make more of my favourite plants. These Allium 'Millenium' were one of the most beautiful flowers in my garden in mid-August.

So I saved some seeds for myself and some to share with gardening friends.

I've dried them and now they are ready to go into my homemade seed packets.

I use small coin envelopes (# 3 coin envelopes available at Staples) for my seed packets.

I even created my own seed labels using a 2" x 4" transparent Avery mailing label (Avery 18663). It is super easy to download a template and print up your labels on a home computer.

So friends will find in their Christmas cards a mix of seeds that might include

some 'Baby Joe' Pye Weed and....

....seeds from Joe Pye Weed, Eupatorium altissimum 'Prairie Jewel'.

I know that the plants grown from my Helenium seeds will not be true to their fancy hybrid parents. (They will only come true when propagated from cuttings.)

But it could be interesting!

Who knows what will pop up next spring: perhaps a through

back to the hybrid's parents or grandparents?

Some plants I already have in such abundance there is no need to collect seed.

I am sharing these seeds too- this time with the birds and other creatures
that inhabit my garden each winter.

Happy New Year!

For my first post of 2015, I thought that I would sneak right past Old Man Winter and

focus instead on late spring.

If you ever find yourself lucky enough to visit Nova Scotia in spring or summer, you must pay a visit to the Rock Garden in village of Bible Hill (near Truro, Nova Scotia).

Located at the heart of Dalhousie University's Agricultural Campus, the Rock Garden is both a place for botanical studies and a local tourist attraction.

An impressive four hundred and fifty tons of local red granite were used to create this garden.

Covering a little more than an acre of land, the garden has, as you will see, a remarkable collection of plants. In today's post, we begin in the courtyard and stroll through the woodland.

Creeping Thyme

A close-up of the gorgeous Pink Azalea that you may have noticed in the lower

lefthand corner of the last shot.

Originally I thought that this was Moss Phlox, Phlox subulata one of my all-time favourite spring groundcovers. But as a reader pointed out, the rounded and not moss-like. I now believe it to be Phlox stolonifera.

Wondering what this is?

It's a Fern Leaf Peony. It has delicate ferny foliage, and depending on the cultivar, stands about approximately 18-24 inches tall.

When it comes to most peonies, the flower is the star of the show and the foliage can be rather nondescript. Here the opposite is true. The foliage is the standout feature and the flower is somewhat secondary.

The majority of the Fern Leaf Peonies I have come across have single flowers in shades of red, pink or white. If you hunt around you may find a nursery that also offers Fern Leaf Peonies with double red flowers.

Fern Leaf Peonies require full sun and will grow in most soils as long as they have been improved with some organic matter. They emerge a little later in spring than most other types of peonies.

A fern with white Candytuft, Iberis sempervirens at its feet.

On the left you can see the pink Peony that is shown in close-up in the next photograph.

A Peony with a single pink flower.

Bugleweed, Ajuga adapts to full sun, part shade or full shade. In moist soil, Bugleweed will quickly forms a dense carpet. It spreads a little less vigorously when conditions are on the dry side. Height: 10-15 cm. If you are considering Ajuga, try looking for one of the newer cultivars that is somewhat less invasive like Ajuga genevensis. USDA Zones: 2-9

These pretty flowers are Spanish Bluebells (not to be confused with English Bluebells, which have similar bell-shaped flowers. On English Bluebells the flowers extend up one side of the stem, whereas Spanish Bluebells have flowers which whirl all the way around the stem).

Spanish Bluebells hail from the mountains and woodland areas of Europe and North Africa. They prefer full sun to light shade. Not particular fussy, Spanish Bluebells naturalize well (to the point that they are sometimes considered a bit of a nuisance). They make a nice companion plant for Narcissus which bloom at approximately the same time.

Japanese Woodland Primrose, Primula sieboldii

I am not sure about this plant either. Any ideas? A Geum perhaps?

Candelabra Primrose, Primula japonica is a group of woodland plants with fresh green foliage and a crown of flowers in late spring. They prefer part shade and moist or wet clay soil that is rich in organic matter. Height: 30-60 cm (12-23 inches), Spread: 25-30 cm (10-12 inches). USDA Zones: 5-9

Foam Flower, Tiarellais a close cousin to Coral Bells (Heuchera). Depending on the cultivar, they have white flowers or white flowers tipped with pink that appear mid-spring. Part shade conditions and moist, rich soil is preferred. Height varies slightly according to the cultivar, but is approximately: 20-30 cm (8-12 inches), Spread: 25-30 cm (10-12 inches). USDA zones: 4-9

At this point, the Rock Garden takes a humble bow.

More of this wonderful garden up shortly.

Believe it or not, the Rock Garden, which now covers a good part of an acre of land on the Agricultural Campus of Dalhousie University had its early beginnings as one man's "little" retirement project.

Dr. Bernard Jackson had retired to Truro, Nova Scotia after spending 22 years as the Director of the Memorial University Botanical Garden in St. John's Newfoundland, when he was approached by the Agricultural College in Truro to create a new rock garden on their campus.

With a modest budget of just five thousand dollars Dr. Jackson set about creating the garden you see today.

Basket of Gold, Aurinia saxatilis

As Operational Manager for the grounds unit at the Agricultural Campus, Darwin Carr became the project's manager. He made sure Dr. Jackson had tools, materials and equipment, as well the labour for the daily construction and planting activities. Darwin oversaw the budget, as well as coordinated the efforts of the Friends of the Garden, the team of dedicated volunteers who help maintain the garden's specialist plant collections.

I owe Darwin Carr a huge debt of gratitude for providing me with all of the background information in this post, as well as assistance with identifying amy of the unusual alpine plants. Thank you Darwin!

In the limestone courtyard at the entrance to the Rock Garden, there are several large stone troughs that look like they must weigh a ton. Darwin tells me:

"The troughs are hand-cut sandstone. And yes, they are heavy! The big one at the entrance to the garden had to be carved right on location... We had a local stone mason/sculpture (Heather Lawson of Raspberry Stone) carve them out to provide room for soil and fragments of stone, then we planted them to create the miniature landscapes that you see now."

"Trough growing is a bit tricky in our east coast climate. The freeze/thaw cycles we generally get every winter tend to be hard on true alpines, but some things settle right in and love it."

Ice plant, Delosperma basuticum: is native to the mountains of South Africa. It forms a low cushion of succulent, green foliage and has starry yellow flowers. Full sun and excellent drainage are essential for this plant. Sandy or normal soils, with dry growing conditions are best. Height: 2-4 cm (1-2 inches), Spread: 15-20 cm (6-8 inches) USDA Zones: 5-9.

I asked Darwin to tell me a little bit about the choice of stone in the Rock Garden.

"The choice of stone was a combination of factors. The natural bed rock in the area is a soft red sandstone, not very good for building rock gardens as it tends to melt away as it weathers... Luckily for us there was a local rock quarry not far from Truro that has a surplus of red granite....They gave Bernard and I a tour and said we could have as much as we wanted. "

"Twelve loads of stone turned into fifteen as Bernard kept calling for "more rocks"as the construction moved forward. Over the next twelve years we added many new features including a woodland walk, limestone courtyard with troughs, barrens and much more. We have plans to expand again next year."

With regard to the plantings Darwin informs me:

"We have been blessed to have formed the Nova Scotia Rock Garden Club with many members that are avid seed growers. That's how half the plant material has come our way for the rock garden. Many of the perennials plants are just not available in nursery trades. True alpines tend to be short-lived in our climate. So we tend to experiment with species. If we kill it, we try again until we find the right location. Our winters are hard on plants."

As you read through some of the plant profiles in this post, you will see that good drainage is a recurring notation.

These are plants that hate to sit in damp earth, particularly in winter. But what constitutes good drainage?

I asked Darwin Carr about the soil mix that was used to create the rock garden:

"The soil mix is equal parts top soil from onsite (sandy loam), leaf mould/compost and sharp grit or pea stone. Then, once the plants are in and settled, we use course crushed granite as a mulch to cover the ground and protect the plant crowns from getting too wet.

Alpines require very good drainage as they are to survive our harsh maritime climate. That's the key to growing most alpines in landscape situations: drainage, drainage, drainage! Yes, I said it three times. Too many plants are put into regular garden soil and most don't survive one year. Many people think alpines are hard to grow or that you have to be a plant expert, but really it's just attention to the plant's needs."

The Rock Garden's collection of hardy cactus is a perfect example of the success you can have with plants when you address the issue of drainage properly. Darwin recounts:

"The hardy cactus bed is always of interest to visitors, especially when they start to bloom in early July. I've had many folks ask me if "we take them all in for the winter" or "how we glue on all those flowers". People are amazed that we can grow cacti in the landscape."

Cushion Spurge, Euphorbia Polychroma

Darwin: "Bernard decided that we would build a dry stream bed. It looks like water has been moving through the area, as is the case in all alpine streams which generally dry up in summer."

Cushion Spurge, Euphorbia Polychroma: prefers full sun and somewhat dry conditions. Normal or sandy soil are best. Trim Euphorbia Polychroma back in early summer to keep it neat and compact, but be careful to wear garden gloves as the milky-white sap the plant extrudes can be irritating to skin. Height: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches), Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches). USDA Zones: 3-9.

Evergreen Candytuft, Iberis sempervirens: Candytuft has glossy, evergreen foliage and white flowers that bloom for several weeks in spring. Prune lightly after flowering to keep it from getting leggy. Good drainage is essential and somewhat dry conditions are preferred. Candytuft is not easily divided. Full sun. Height: 20-25 cm (8-10 inches), Spread: 30-90 cm (12-35 inches). USDA Zones: 3-9.

The two bridges in the garden were built by students studying woodworking.

Grey cranesbill, Geranium cinereum var. subcaulescens 'Splendens': has grey-green leaves and magenta flowers with a black centre. Trim plants lightly after they flower to encourage new flowers and a bushier plant. Full sun or light shade. Normal or sandy soil and somewhat dry growing conditions are best. Height: 10-15 cm (4-6 inches), Spread: 25-30 cm (10-12 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Dwarf Renard Cranesbill, Geranium renardii: is a great choice for sunny, well drained sites like the Rock Garden. It has textured, grey-green foliage and white flowers veined with mauve in late spring. Full sun or part shade. Normal or sandy soil and somewhat dry growing conditions are best for this geranium. Height: 15-20 cm (6-8 inches), Spread: 20-30 cm (8-12 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Bloody Cranesbill, Geranium sanguineum var. lancastriense : has green foliage and pretty pink flowers in late spring. Unlike the previous two geraniums, this one tolerates a variety of soil and growing conditions. Full sun to light shade. It is also a bit taller than the previous Cranesbill geraniums: Height: 30-40 cm (12-16 inches), Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches). USDA Zones: 3-9.

Pasque Flower gone to seed.

This is a plant for which I found many common names: Rattleweed, Cow Bell, Bladder Campion or Catchfly.

Bladder Campion, Silene uniflora: has a low cushion of grey-green leaves and white flowers in late spring. It can be grown in a range of soil types and tolerates both dry and moist conditions. Full sun to light shade. Height: 5-10 cm (2-4 inches), Spread: 20-30 cm (8-12 inches). USDA Zones: 3-9.

The next plant makes a home in a tiny crevice in the rock.

Dwarf Snapdragon, Chaenorhinum origanifolium: has a purple flower with a white throat. It likes full sun or light shade. It has average water requirements, but like most of the plants in this blog post, it needs good drainage. Height: 5-15 cm (4-6 inches), Spread: 15-20 cm (6-8 inches). USDA Zones 7a-9b.

Purple Columbine

Bellflower, Campanula chamissonis: has compact green leaves which grow not more than two to six inches high. Light purple, bell-shaped flowers with a white throat appear in mid-spring. Again, good drainage is essential. This campanula is not invasive. Full sun. Height: 5-15 cm ( 2-6 inches), Spread: 15-20 cm (6-8 inches). USDA Zones 4-7.

Welsh Poppy, Meconopsis cambrica: Prefers moist, well drained soil and part to full shade. Note: It is a very good self-seeder given the right conditions. Height: 30-45 cm, Spread: 45-60 cm. USDA Zone: 3-11.

The seed pod sculpture is the work of stonemason Heather Lawson.

I end with this sculpture and the hope that this beautiful Rock Garden in Nova Scotia

may plant a seed of inspiration.

Is it just me or is there an growing interest in hobby beekeeping?

Just poking around for a few minutes on the internet lead to all manner of clubs, local associations and classes in beekeeping.

I even found a local group, the Toronto Beekeeper Co-operative that has, among its many activities, a roof top apiary in the core of downtown Toronto. Beekeeping in the heart of Canada's biggest city? Hey, why not?

Last summer I visited Nova Scotia and stopped in for an afternoon to visit my friend Donna Evers. She and her husband Duff have been hobby beekeeping for years.

I asked Donna to tell me more about it:

"Duff first kept bees thirty years ago when we lived in New Brunswick and is delighted to be tending bees again. This will be the third year we have them in our garden in Nova Scotia.

"The first year was quite uneventful. The bees went about their business, filled our garden with their presence and gave us about 70 lbs. of honey to share with friends.

"Since then we have lost some swarms and caught swarms from neighbouring hives. A swarm of bees is a sight to behold!"

I confessed to Donna that while I find bees fascinating, like many people, I am a bit fearful.

Donna coached me to, "Read, read and then read some more before you decide to keep bees. The more you learn the less frightened you become. We have been stung, but it has always been our own fault."

"When there is a good supply of pollen and nectar, bees are happy to go about their business. Under these conditions it is a good time to check out what is happening in the hive. Weeks of cold, rainy weather tends to make them cranky, and then they are best left alone."

I asked Donna about the costs involved in beekeeping as a hobby.

Donna replied, "For backyard beekeepers like us the cost of a start up hive is around $350. This includes the nucleolus of bees and a wooden hive. A bee suit, gloves and a smoker are also necessary for investigating activity in the hive on a regular basis."

Picture by Donna Evers. Uncapping the honey before it goes into the centrifuge to be spun out.

"At the end of the season an electric knife and a centrifuge are needed for honey extraction. Often hobby beekeepers belong to a co-op and members share the equipment necessary for the extraction."

Picture by Donna Evers. Duff checks to make sure the bees are building honey comb.

Picture by Donna Evers.

I also asked about the basic set up of the hives:

"Our hives are wooden boxes set on a base of cement blocks. These boxes are called supers and inside each super are ten frames. The bees build out honey comb on both sides of each frame. Then they proceed to lay eggs, store pollen and nectar in these honey comb cells. When a cell is filled it is capped by the bees.

Picture by Donna Evers. Here Duff is looking for any queen bee cells. There is lots of evidence of stored and capped honey.

Picture by Donna Evers: "The hive's queen is in there somewhere!"

"When the frames in a super are filled, a new super of empty frames must be added. We always leave two full supers for the bees when they are wrapped for the winter. These two supers are the winter home and food supply for the bees. "

Picture by Donna Evers.

"Bees do not hibernate. For the winter months we cover the bee hives with sheets of styrofoam and then wrap them in tar paper. An entrance is left for the bees to come and go and do a bit of house cleaning on fine days."

Picture by Donna Evers.

Donna's honey is a pale, golden color. Generally the honey I find in the supermarket is a deeper gold. I asked Donna about the difference.

Donna: "Our honey is unprocessed. The color and the taste is largely determined by the plant material that the bees visit to gather the pollen and nectar."

"Pasteurized honey is honey that has been heated to 145F. Pasteurization improves the shelf life and helps slow the crystallization of the honey. Unpasteurized honey is run through a stainer and put straight into a container."

Picture by Donna Evers. A collected swarm following the queen into the hive.

Finally I asked Donna about swarms of bees.

Donna:"Swarming is the way bees increase, but a beekeeper discourages this from happening by inspecting the hive and destroying any queen cells. Two queens will not co-exist in a hive and a swarm results. After a swarm the beekeeper is left with a diminished hive. Honey production will drop and it will be a weaker hive going into winter."

" The little box on the top of the arbor is a swarm trap that is baited with lemon grass oil. The beekeeper crosses his/her fingers and prays that the swarm of bees which left his hive will be tempted to take up residence in the swarm box. Unfortunately our first swarm settled at the top of a 60' spruce instead. There was no way we could collect them. The weather at the time was rainy and cold. They remained in the tree for five days and never seemed to have considered the swarm trap. When the sun came out on the sixth day, they were gone."

"To capture a swarm is good fortune indeed, because the swarm is anxious to setup housekeeping and often becomes a very productive hive. In a swarm the bees cluster around the queen and scouts are sent out to determine where best to establish a new residence. This is when a swarm must be captured."

"Once a new residence is decided upon the swarm leaves and your golden opportunity is gone. "

"It is worth knowing that bees in a swarm are not likely to sting. They have engorged on honey before leaving the hive and finding a new home is top priority."

Picture by Donna Evers

Donna warned me,"Jennifer, I have just skimmed the surface. Don't ever get trapped in a room with a bunch of bee keepers ;-)"

I leave the final words of this post to Donna, "There is always something to learn. Bees are the most amazing creatures."

Just a Few of the Resources Available:

Donna had a few books to recommend for anyone interested in keeping bees:

The Beekeepers Handbook 4th Edition by Diana Sammataro and Alphonse Avitabile (which Donna describes as "Duff's bee Bible")

Bzzz: Beekeeper's Primer by Evelyn Fatigati (Donna says it's her favourite, but is no longer in print. It is however, available second hand from Amazon. Donna tells me that it is a "wonderful book about a young boy whose grandfather gives him a hive of bees for his birthday.")

If you are interested in beekeeping, be sure to check out the regulations in your area.

Donna's brief note on beekeeping regulations:"In Canada each province has a system in place for registration and inspection of hives. This has become very strict, because of the diseases that are threatening the honey bees."

Online Resources:

French Bee Transfer (seen above) great for craft projects available as a downloadable file from the Graphics Fairy.

Creating a Bee Friendly Garden: Bee friendly project ideas

American:

American Beekeeping Federation

American Honey Producers Association

Links to area Beekeeping Associations by State: Apiary inspectors of America

Canadian:

Alberta: Alberta Beekeeping Associations and Clubs

British Columbia: Bee Keeping Associations and Clubs

B C Honey Producers Association

New Brunswick: Beekeeping Association and Clubs

Nova Scotia:

Halifax Honey Bee Society

Nova Scotia Beekeepers

Nova Scotia Bees

Dalhousie University: The Modern Beekeeper- classes in beekeeping

Ontario:

Toronto Beekeepers Co-operative

Beekeeping Course at the Toronto Botanical Gardens

Introductory Beekeeping Course at the University of Guelph

Ontario Beekeeper's Association: which offers a list of area beekeeping associations

Manitoba:Manitoba Beekeepers Association

Saskatchewan: Saskatchewan Beekeepers Association

Quebec: List of Clubs and Associations

When I realized in panic that Rusty wasn't in the house or fenced yard, I naturally turned up our street calling his name frantically as I went. After all this was the path we walked each evening. That he might have turned the other way, toward the corner and the six lane highway, seemed unthinkable.

A neighbour heard me calling. Taking pity on me, improperly dressed for the freezing weather, he offered to drive me around to look for Rusty.

And what a kind man he was to drive me all over the neighbourhood, even waiting patiently while I left our details at the elementary school on the off chance that Rusty might turn up there.

When our neighbour finally dropped me back home, I went out again on foot, but it was if Rusty had vanished off the face of the earth. Frozen, I finally retreated home. Later in the afternoon when my husband came home, we went out in the car and continued to look well into the evening, but to no avail. We went up to bed with one less dog and two very heavy hearts.

First thing this morning the phone ran. It was the animal shelter calling. I heard my husband saying Rusty's name into the receiver and my heart leapt for joy. Somebody had found our little lost boy!

But no, seconds later I heard my husband repeat the words "was hit by a car and had passed before the Police or Animal Control arrived". I burst into tears.

A spring and the latch on the backyard gate usually means that the gate locks shut whenever someone goes out. Unfortunately freezing temperatures and snow had effected mechanism and yesterday morning the latch did not lock. A gust of wind and the gate swung open for only a moment. Rusty seized the opportunity to go on a walk-about. What made him turn toward the busy highway we'll never know, but before I even realized he was missing, he probably already gone.

How we will miss our sweet little dog. My husband and I are devastated.

In this, the final post on the Rock Garden in Truro Nova Scotia, I want to look at one of the design features that makes this type of garden so appealing: texture.

Generally we turn to foliage, bark and other hard surfaces to add a textural element to a garden's design.

In a rock garden however, a low dense blanket of blooms can be used to create an exquisite textured surface.

White Creeping Thyme, Thymus praecox 'Albiflorus'

Saxiffraga paniculata 'Brevifolia'

Texture can be defined as the tactile quality of a surface.

In contrast with the rugged, weather-beaten granite, there something jewel-like about the tiny green rosettes of this Saxiffraga paniculata 'Brevifolia'.

Texture has a marvellous tactile quality.

It is hard to resist touching soft, fuzzy foliage like this Pussy Toes, Antennaria dioica 'Rubra' (seen below).

Pink Pussy Toes, Antennaria dioica 'Rubra': is a native wildflower that has grey-green leaves and pink flowers in early summer. Pussy Toes are well suited to hot, sunny spots and poor, dry soil. Height: 10-12 cm (4-5 inches), Spread: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches) USDA Zones 3-9.

So far most of my planting notes have featured alpines and perennials. In this post I'd like to shift the focus briefly onto another key rock garden component: the conifers.

Darwin Carr, Operational Manager for the grounds at the Agricultural Campus of Dalhousie University notes:

"Dwarf conifers always look great when paired with alpines and rocks. They give the garden the look of high alpine terrain."

"Wind, ice and snow sculpt the native evergreen forest near the snow line of mountain tops into Krummholz, which is a German word meaning "crooked wood". Krummholz trees are usually short, attaining no more than six feet in height. These stunted, twisted trees are some of the inspiration for landscaping with dwarf conifers."

Picea abies 'Little Gem': is a Norway spruce cultivar that has a cushion-like habit. This conifer is a slow grower (about 3" per year). Full sun to light shade. Deer resistant. Needs regular watering especially during periods of summer heat. Height: 20-30 cm, Spread: 20-25 cm. USDA Zones 3-7.

Darwin Carr notes:"This is one of my favourite dwarf conifers. I have a nice one in a concrete trough at home that's been there about 10 years. In that time, it has reached about the size of a dinner plate."

Carpeting the ground is Wooly thyme, Thymus pseudolanuginosus, in the left foreground is Cotoneaster adpressus 'Little Gem', directly behind the Cotoneaster is a Bristlecone Pine, Pinus artistata

Too often people think a great garden is one that is filled with flowers, but just look above to see how wonderful a scene that is primarily green can be.

Contrast and texture make "green" interesting.

The grey-green carpet of thyme is like soft velvet, whereas the Cotoneaster and Bristlecone Pine by contrast are stiff and spiky.

Without the high drama of flowers, nothing demands your attention. There is a subtly at work here.

I think that is why green feels so restful. It is like soft music.

The golden colored groundcover is Juniperus horizontalis. The weeping evergreen is Thuga canadensis 'Pendula'. The upright conifer is Juniperus chinesis 'Iowa'.

When mixing together a scene that is generally green, you can add an extra level of sophistication by considering the directional flow of your foliage.

In front of a group of upright conifers, this weeping evergreen Thuga canadensis 'Pendula'cascades in an incredible waterfall effect.

The plant with the silver foliage is Salix helvatica, the upright chartreuse shrub on the left is a dwarf Alberta spruce, Picea glauca 'Rainbow's end' and the evergreen on the right is Picea abies 'Gregoryana Parsonii'.

Texture does not work its magic in isolation.

Shape and color have a role to play in accentuating different textural surfaces.

This mix of plant includes is Phlox borealis ( magenta-mauve in color) and white Arabis x sturii and some small patches of white Candytuft, Iberis saxatilis.

And of course in any rock garden, there is the stone.

It is amazing to think that plants manage to grow in this spare, rocky landscape.

Spurless Columbine, Semiaquilegia 'Sugar Plum Fairy'

And yet they do flourish and often in the most delicate way.

A cascading white Candytuft, Iberis saxatilis

Pinks, Dianthus 'La bourboule'

Sheriff's Rock Jasmine, Androsace sarmentosa 'Sherriffii': has mauve flowers and evergreen rosettes that form a trailing carpet. Excellent drainage is key to having success with this plant. Full sun or light shade (they may need a little afternoon shade in warm regions). Height: 10-12 cm (4-5 inches), Spread: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches) USDA Zones 3-9.

Saxifraga paniculata 'Brevifolia'

Saxifraga paniculata: has rosettes of evergreen leaves and sprays of white flowers carried on maroon stems. This plant likes light shade and somewhat moist soil with good drainage. Height: 15-25 cm (6-10 inches), Spread: 25-30 cm (10-12 inches) USDA Zones 3-9.

Red Lady's Fingers or Red Kidney Vetch, Anthyllis vulneraria var. 'Coccinea': has a low mound of silvery-green leaves and orange-red flowers in late spring. This plant tolerates poor soil and dry conditions once established. Full sun. Height: 15-20 cm (6-8 inches), Spread: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches) USDA Zones 4-9.

Pasque flowers, Pulsatilla are unique in the many ways they manage to add texture. Not only are the grey-green leaves and bell-shaped flowers are soft and downy, the seedheads are as fine as baby's hair.

The flowers bloom before the foliage emerges each spring and open in the morning sunshine and close each evening.

Darwin Carr tells me:

"We have an enormous number of pulsatilla in the garden... We started with two species, and they really like growing conditions here, so if we don't deadhead them after flowering, we will have literally thousands of seedlings the next spring."

In the foreground is Japanese Burnet, Sanguisorba obtusa. In the middleground are Pasque Flowers, that have gone to seed and in the upper left is Kashmir Mountain Ash, Sorbus cashmiriana which has white fruit.

I want to close this series by recommending that, if you ever are lucky enough to tour Nova Scotia, a visit to the Rock Garden on the Agricultural Campus of Dalhousie University is well worth your while.

I am already looking for any excuse to go back and see the other campus gardens that I missed the last time around: the Butterfly Garden, the Chef's Garden, the Alumni Garden and the Herb Garden.

But then, it doesn't take much of an excuse for me to want to visit my old home province of Nova Scotia.

Sometimes we take long standing institutions for granted until they are gone.

In need of a winter pick-me-up, I decided to pop into the Gardenimport's website to get a little spring preview. What a shock it was to find a brief letter from Dugald and Lynn Cameron saying that "it's been a good run, but after 32 years, we've reached the end of the road".

It seems that Gardenimport, a venerable Canadian garden mail-order company, is the latest casualty of these recessionary times.

As harbingers of spring and fall, Gardenimport's twice-a-year catalogues were always something to look forward to receiving in the mail. Yes, what they sold was pricy, but you could always count on finding a selection of rare and exotic perennials and bulbs that no one else offered.

In an interview on the CBC' radio's "Ontario Today", Dugald recounted that he started his company back in the 80's when gardening experienced a huge serge in popularity. At that time, it was hard to find a nursery that sold anything out of the ordinary. The arrival of big box stores with volume purchasing power and the growth of specialty nurseries however, made it increasing difficult for Gardenimport to compete on price. Despite heroic efforts and a new website, sales continued on a path of gradual decline.

Expressing her distress about the closing, Marjorie Harris praised Gardenimport for helping to create "the kind of taste we have in gardens today."She went on to lament consumers who were willing to put the bulk of their budgets into hardscaping and "ten cents on their plants."

But can we blame consumers caught in a recession for choosing price over quality?

Perhaps not, but putting price above other considerations has an unfortunate side effect of limiting our choices as consumers. The closing of Gardenimport is likely to be most keenly felt by Canadian gardeners who live outside urban centres with their arsenals of big box stores and garden centres at which to shop. Even here in the Greater Toronto Area it will be challenging to find many of the more unusual plants and bulbs I purchased in the past from Gardenimport.

With the closing of Gardenimport, the selection of rare and unusual plants and bulbs available for sale in Canada just got that much smaller.

What feelings do you have on the closing of Gardenimport?

In this BBC television series garden expert Alan Titchmarsh takes a look at four historic British gardens and examines how they continue to influence and inspire modern day gardens.

Garden Secrets of the 17th Century

Garden Secrets of the 18th Century

Garden Secrets of the 19th Century

Garden Secrets of the 20th Century

In the coming months I have a few public gardens to show you, each of which has something unique makes them special.

Templin Garden in Fergus, Ontario has one really great thing going for it: location, location location. It's hard to beat the spectacular view of a deep river gorge that the garden offers.

And if you get tired of simply admiring the flowers and the view, there is a stone staircase that takes you right down to the bottom of the gorge.

Melting snow and spring rains mean that the Grand River can sometimes be a loud, raging torrent.

When we visited last August however, the waters had subsided and the vista from the footbridge that crosses the river was quiet and picturesque.

Templin Garden was a depression era work project under the direction of J. C. Templin, the then editor of the Fergus Evening Express.

Today the gardens are largely under the care of the "Digging in the Dirt Gang" who plant and maintain approximately 30 gardens in small town of Fergus. These twenty-odd members of the local Horticultural Society meet every Tuesday in Templin and go about doing the work needed in the garden.

Let's take a look at some of their handy work, shall we?

White spires of Laitris spicata

An array of jewel coloured Zinnias.

Brown-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia

I contacted the Horticultural Society to find out the identity of this really gorgeous Phlox. Speaking for the Society, Roberta tells me that she believes it to be Phlox paniculata 'Bright Eyes'.

This is the stone staircase that descends down to the Grand River:

Japanese Bloodgrass,Imperata cylindrica

Balloon Flower, Platycodon grandiflorus

Looking across to the far side of the Grand River.

It's quite the romantic spot don't you think?

I have created my own YouTube Channel. (My son would so roll his eyes!)

You can watch the videos on my Playlists as well. Click the word "Playlist" to access the collections of gardening videos. Here is a link.

Then select the series of videos you want to watch.

Newly added are the first two seasons of The Great British Garden Revival. The evangelistic nature of the series can get a bit much at times, but there is lots of great information in each episode and that makes them well worth watching.

Enjoy!

Could there be any better Spring flower to showcase during the week of Valentine's Day than good, old-fashioned Bleeding Hearts?

I have three varieties of Bleeding Hearts in my garden (Dicentra spectabilis, Dicentra spectabilis 'Goldheart' and Dicentra spectabilis 'Alba'), all of which are in light shade.

The pretty, fern-like foliage appears in early May and lasts well into mid-summer, when conditions here in Southern Ontario tend to get drier than Dicentra prefer. By then their fading foliage is hidden by other plants. The dangling heart-shaped flowers generally last into early June.

Here are just a few of the many cultivars available:

Common Bleeding Heart, Dicentra spectabilis: This common variety is still one of my favourite Bleeding Hearts. It takes a few years to come into its own, but when it does, Dicentra spectabilis forms a generous mound of fresh green foliage. You can refresh the plant after it flowers by cutting it to 6" above the ground, but even so, it will go dormant by late summer. Light to full shade. Height: 70-90 cm, Spread: 70-90 cm. Average to moist soil. USDA Zones 2-9.

Bleeding Heart, Dicentra spectabilis, 'Goldheart': This Bleeding Heart has amazing golden foliage and magenta colored heart-shaped flowers. Height: 60-90 cm, Spread: 60-90 cm. Part or full shade. Average to moist soil. Will go dormant by late summer. Hardy: Zones 2-9.

A heart lovin' bee

Bleeding Heart, Dicentra spectabilis, 'Alba': This Bleeding Heart has bright green foliage and white flowers. Height: 70-90 cm, Spread: 70-90 cm. Light shade to full shade. Average to moist soil. Hardy: Zones 2-9.

Fern-leaf Bleeding Heart, Dicentra formosa 'Bacchanal': has grey-green foliage and deep magenta flowers. Height: 25-30 cm (10-12 inches), Spread: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches) Part or full shade. Average to moist soil. USDA Zones 2-9.

Bleeding Heart, Dicentra formosa 'Luxuriant': is another compact fern-leaf Bleeding Heart that has blue-green foliage and clusters of magenta-red flowers. Fern-leafed varieties are great for the front of a border and may also be used in containers. Height: 25-30 cm (10-12 inches), Spread: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches). Part or full shade. Average to moist soil. USDA Zones 2-9.

Bleeding Heart, Dicentra formosa 'Adrain Bloom': 'Adrain Bloom' is a compact plant with blue-green foliage and clusters of magenta-pink flowers. Removing spent flowers should encourage a long season of bloom. Height: 25-30 cm (10-12 inches), Spread: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches). Part or full shade. Average to moist soil. USDA Zones 2-9.

Have a Happy Valentines Day!

"Love looks not with the eyes, but with the mind,

And therefore is winged Cupid painted blind."

William Shakespeare, A Midsummer Night's Dream

It's the afternoon following Valentine's Day and I thought I would keep romance in the air

by showing you a lovely rose garden.

Visitors to this country property pass through an arbor that divides the public front yard

from the more private fenced backyard.

On the left, at a back corner of the house, is a small fountain and shade garden. Encircling the fountain is an attractive array of hostas and other shade loving perennials.

To the left of the fountain is a large Ligularia. I am not certain of the exact cultivar, but I will give you reference to a plant that has the same dramatic black stems:

Ligularia 'The Rocket': Ligularia like moist conditions. Sun and somewhat dry soil can cause the leaves to wilt as you see in my photograph above. You can attempt to compensate for somewhat dryer conditions by insuring your Ligularia has some afternoon shade. 'The Rocket' forms a large clump of jagged edged leaves. Purplish-black stems and yellow flowers appear mid-summer. As with hostas, slugs can be an issue for this plant. Ligularia is one perennial that is quite happy in clay. Height: 120-180 cm (47-70 inches), Spread: 80-90 cm (31-35 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Another interesting plant in this area of the garden is this Bugbane, Cimicifuga. When I bought a Cimicifuga for my own garden last spring, I found that there were a number of similar cultivars with the main distinction being price. Below is a reference to the one I purchased. It has the same deep purply-black foliage.

Cimicifuga ramosa 'James Compton': has deep purplish black ferny foliage and fragrant bottlebrush-shaped white flowers in late summer. It likes rich, moist soil and part to full shade. Height: 120-150 cm (47-60 inches), Spread: 60-75 cm (23-29 inches). USDA Zones: 4-8.

This plant with its white berries is a mystery. Any ideas?

A pathway leads away from the corner of the house into a little rose garden. Though it is a fairly new garden, it already has great promise.

Lush green foliage makes the perfect backdrop for

this traditional garden sculpture.

I dwell in possibility.

Emily Dickinson

This is garden art that belongs in a horror film.

I came across this bronze statue of a small child gazing down into the murky depths of a pond last summer. The large, geometric pond was not deep, but the black liner gave it an ominous, dare I say sinister, quality.

Despite my rather melodramatic opening, this is not a blog post that means to suggest the likelihood of a diabolical side to gardening. With the possible exception of the creepy garden art, I like to think that gardening is a "force" for good in the world.

In this instance, there is no dark arts or science fiction involved - the "dark" I am talking about here are deep, rich colors. Bold colors from eggplant to burgundy to black are the opposite of whisy-washy. They're dramatic.

I've noticed that many experienced gardeners use strong colors to add a sophistication to their plantings. The repetition of boldly colored foliage is just one trick they use to breakup a scene that would otherwise be dominantly green.

I am going to begin with a series of wide shots. In each there is a pleasing balance of opposites - the yin and yang of light and dark colors.

Jacquie's garden in Darthmouth, N.S.

Garden Canadensis in Milton, Ontario

The garden of Marion Jarvie, Thornhill, Ontario

Rich colors make bright colors pop in contrast.

Private garden, Toronto Ontario. There is a nice mix of Heuchera in the foreground.

Deep colors can be found in foliage, stems and flowers. Here are just a few

examples in each category:

The garden of Marion Jarvie, Thornhill, Ontario

At the foot of this pink Phlox is the purplish-black foliage of Bugleweed, Ajuga. Here is a reference to a variety of Ajuga you might want to consider for your own garden:

Ajuga reptans 'Chocolate Chip': has narrow, brownish-green foliage and showy spikes of blue flowers in June. This variety is not as quick to spread as some Bugleweeds. Part to full shade. It will grow in a variety of soil types , but likes moist conditions. Height: 10-15 cm (4-6 inches), Spread 30-45 cm (12-18 inches) USDA Zones: 3-9.

This is a plant I added to my garden last summer. It is supposed to be short-lived in zones 5 and 6, so fingers crossed it makes it through this record breaking February weather.

Wood Spurge 'Purpurea', Euphorbia amygdaloides 'Purpurea': has greyish-purple-green foliage with chartreuse flower clusters in spring. It likes 3-6 hours of morning or afternoon sun. Euphorbia amygdaloides 'Purpurea' will grow a variety of soil types and can take everything from moist to dry conditions. Height: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches), Spread: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches). USDA Zones: 5-9.

The garden of Marion Jarvie, Thornhill, Ontario

Not the best picture, but hopefully good enough for you to see the black magic of this Ligularia.

Ligularia 'Britt Marie Crawford': is a plant you grow for the foliage and not the flowers. This Ligularia forms a large clump of mahogany leaves with golden-orange flowers in mid-summer. Slugs can be an issue. Part shade to full shade in warm regions. Moist soil is essential. Height: 90-120 cm (35-47 inches), Spread: 80-90 cm ( 31-35 inches). USDA Zones:3-9.

There are any number of Heuchera with dark foliage that you can choose from. Some Heuchera, like the Heuchera 'Silver Scroll' on the left, are an interesting combination of frosted leaf surfaces with dark undersides and flower stems.

For late summer consider any number of the Sedums with deep reddish-green foliage. Here are just a few of the possibilities: Autumn Stonecrop Sedum 'Chocolate Drop', Sedum 'Purple Emperor' and Sedum 'Xenox'.

The garden of Marion Jarvie, Thornhill, Ontario

I also wanted to include a few tender perennials like this Canna Lily which must be lifted from the garden each fall. This may seem like a lot of bother, but when you consider how striking they are in a late summer garden, they are more than worth the effort.

Dahlias are another plant whose tubers must be lifted in fall. There are a good number of cultivars to choose from that have rich, purply-black foliage.

Here are just two: Dahlia 'Mystic Illusion' has nearly-black foliage with yellow flowers. Dahlia 'Happy Single Wink'has a single magenta flowers and striking black foliage .

Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop' in the garden of Marion Jarvie

One final tender plant which I spotted in Marion Jarvie's garden: Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop'.

In Zone 6, this plant is unusual enough to make it a conversation piece. Aeonium must be lifted in early fall and brought in from the cold to be wintered indoors.

Black Tree Aeonium, Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop': is a winter-blooming succulent with rosettes of black leaves. It requires full sun and well-drained soil. Height: 60 cm -1.8 m (24 inches to 6 ft), Spread: 30-38 cm (12-15 inches) USDA Zones 9-11.

Public Garden, Guelph ON

Coleus famously comes in some pretty wacky color combinations like this

one in the lower righthand corner.

Templin Garden, Fergus Ontario

But if you search around you may be lucky to find one of the marvellous varieties

that are a deep smoky-plum.

Donna Ever's garden in Halifax, N.S.

Just a few examples of plants with dark stems. This Maidenhair Fern has thin black stems.

Maidenhair Fern, Adiantum pedatum: has arching black stems and fans of green leaflets. The foliage is great in cut flower arrangements. These ferns like rich, moist soil. You may find that they take several years to reach a mature size. Height: 30-60 cm (12-23 inches), Spread: 30-60 cm (12-23 inches). USDA Zones: 2-9.

Private garden near Uxbridge, ON

Combing dark stems and foliage is Penstemon 'Dark Towers': Height: 60-90 cm, Spread: 45-60 cm. Full sun. Normal, sandy or clay soil are fine. Average to dry conditions. Zones: USDA 3-9

Jacquie's garden in Darthmouth, N.S.

Ligularia 'The Rocket': Ligularia like moist conditions. 'The Rocket' forms a large clump of jagged edged leaves. Purplish-black stems and yellow flowers appear mid-summer. Ligularia is one perennial that is quite happy in clay. Height: 120-180 cm (47-70 inches), Spread: 80-90 cm (31-35 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

To wrap-up this post, I offer you several types of flowers that have dark flowers.

Columbine: The Columbine, Aquilegia Ancolie (shown above) has eggplant colored flowers. Cultivar Aquilegia 'Black Barlow' has is a double, plum-purple flowers.

Bearded Irises come in a wide range of colors including purples, plums, inky-blues and black.

Hellebores can also be found in shades of wine-red, plum, burgundy and black.

Geranium phaeum 'Samobor'and Geranium phaeum 'Mourning Widow'(above) both have deep plum-wine colored flowers.

Hollyhocks (seen at the bottom of the post) are a biennial whose flowers come in a range of colors including black and burgundy.

As to annuals, how about some black Petunias?

Hollyhocks

Have your say:

Are they black flowers dramatic or just not your thing?

Do you know of some plants you'd like to recommend with dark flowers, stems or foliage?

What's a sign that a public garden has been well designed and executed?

People. Lots of people.

Seniors sipping their coffee, families with babies in strollers, and visitors pausing to admire the flowers on a warm evening last summer were all evidence that the Enabling Garden in the heart of Guelph, Ontario is a community garden in the truest sense of the word.

Trevor Barton, the Enabling Garden's Chair, tells me that the initial concept for the garden began with a fortuitous meeting with Betty Richard, Disabilities Co-ordinator for the City of Guelph at a round table Millennium planning session back in 1999.

When the two struck up a casual conversation about community gardens, conservation and horticultural therapy, the idea to create an accessible garden emerged.

Trevor Barton recounts: "From that chance meeting we reached out further to other liked minded people which included a number of key community players who were Master Gardeners, Ability and Senior's Co-ordinators to plant the seed of this accessible garden project. Fortunately, the City of Guelph at the time was an enthusiastic supporter of the Communities in Bloom and I was able to bring the Director of Recreation and Parks and the Park Planner for the city into the group to develop this idea further."

"From that humble beginning we were able to develop a plan. The City of Guelph donated the land within Riverside Park to build this fully accessible Enabling Garden, which officially opened in June 2005 (the hundred year anniversary of Riverside Park)."

"From 2000-2005 we continually fundraised and brought in many sponsors and benefactors like Reid's Heritage Homes who provided the lion share of donations and in-kind support with builders, earth moving machinery and construction expertise. During this time we were also successful in securing a Trillium Grant which enabled us to hire a Landscape Designer to lead the project..."

Glynis Logue, a Guelph-based environmental designer, brought to this venture her extensive background designing 'healing landscapes'. One of the garden's main objectives was to create a safe, accessible, interactive space. The intent was to foster sense of community ownership, while at the same time contributing to the physical and emotional well-being of its users.

Glynis incorporated into the garden's layout gentle, sweeping curves and a spiral refuge which serves as an enclosure for the garden's year round workshops.

The pathways she designed were wide with smooth, flat surfaces that could accommodate wheelchairs, walkers and clients with low vision. Special benches were made with custom armrests to allow visitors to sit and rise easily easily.

Echinacea in the foreground with native Cup Flowers in the distance.

In terms of the plantings, one of Glynis Logue's innovations was to use native perennials and grasses instead of the formal bedding plants often found in traditional public gardens. These are tough, hardy plants that don't rely on excess water or chemicals to fend off pests.

In keeping with the garden's emphasis on mental and physical wellness, she also included a wide variety of plants that have healing properties. Here are just a few of the healing plants Glynis incorporated into the Enabling Garden:

Boneset 'Chocolate', Eupatorium rugosum, which is a fever reducer

English lavender 'Munstead', Lavandula augustifolia can be used a muscle relaxant

Greek Oregano, Origanum vulgare hirtum which is a digestive aid

New England Fall Aster, Symphyotrichum novae-angliae can be used as a sleep aid

Golden Lemon Thyme, Thymus x citriodorus 'Variegata' is a herb that can boost the immune system

Culver's Root, Veronicastrum virginicum which is a blood purifier

Echinacea with yellow Cup Flowers in the distance.

Cup Flower, Silphium Perfoliatum: The leaves of this native plant form a "cup" around a central stem giving the plant its common name. To the delight of birds and insects, rainwater collects in this shallow leaf basin. In the fall, Goldfinches love to devour the seeds. Cup Plant likes full sun and moist soil best. Height: 120-240 cm ( up to 8'), Spread: 60-90 cm. USDA Zones: 4-8.

Echinacea mixed with Rudbeckia

Rudbeckia with Liatris in the foreground.

Joe Pye Weed

This is one public space that does not expect visitors to admire the plants and flowers from a polite distance. On the contrary, visitors are encouraged to reach out and touch textured foliage and enjoy fragrant flowers like Lavender.

Benches overlooking the river also make this the perfect place to sit, listen and reflect.

I am not sure of the exact cultivar here, but if you find this combination of Rudbeckia and Phlox pretty, I am sure you will like this Phlox:

One of the things that appeals to me, as an artist, is that many of the garden's fundraisers became nice decorative touches. A perfect example are these bricks that edge the paths.

In the centre courtyard, there are community gardens and raised cedar beds at different heights to accommodate seniors and people in wheelchairs.

A horticultural therapist on staff structures programming and offers workshops throughout the year for school aged children, seniors and those of varying abilities.

Composting, mulching, water conservation and xeriscaping are a few of the garden's environmentally friendly practices.

The Mosaic Sculpture Wall on the side of the central utility shed was another fundraiser.

It was developed under the leadership of Goldie Sherman, a ceramic artist, Katrin Wolters a stained glass artist and artist Barbara Guy Long.

The public was given the opportunity to sponsor a ceramic tile for $20.

The health and vigour of the plants in these raised beds speaks to their being lovingly tended.

What can you take away from Guelph's Enabling Garden?

The uplifting belief that a group of civic-minded volunteers can come together to create a wonderful outdoor space that has a positive and far reaching impact on the community as a whole.

Chair, Trevor Barton tells me that, "This special place has evolved into a dynamic destination point that provides over 14,000 clients and volunteers of all abilities and ages the opportunity to share in the joy of gardening each year."

More Information and Links:

The Enabling Garden is located in Riverside Park in the city of Guelph, Ontario. Check the website for spring workshops, volunteer opportunities and if you wish to visit, you can find directions here.

Watch a slide show on the Enabling Garden.

About Designer Glynis Logue:
Glynis Logue is a Guelph-based environmental designer with 20 years of experience designing 'healing landscapes'. Some of her notable project include The River, Markham Museum (commissioned for Land/Slide Possible Futures Exhibition); Guelph Enabling Garden; Pearson Motion Garden, St Joseph's Health Centre (Guelph); and West Harbour Waterfront Trail and Fish Migration Corridor (Hamilton). In 2014, she and her sister Deirdre, created Mood Clusters for the Ottawa inaugural outdoor exhibition Beyond the Edge: Artists' Gardens. Glynis' awards include the Guelph's Mayor Award and the Canadian Urban Institute Award.
Her work is profiled in Ground: Landscape Architect Quarterly Ontario (summer 2012) and CSLA 's Landscape/Paysages, Healing issue ( summer 2014) and Excellence issue (fall 2014). Glynis holds a MLA, University of Guelph, and a BSc, University of Alberta.

The Stratford Garden Festival kicks off the season of spring garden shows this weekend. I have yet to attend the festival, but I have heard good things from a number of people. Here is a link to the garden festival details.

There is fresh snow on the ground that like a meringue has a thin crust with a soft, pillowy interior.

But if you look beyond the new snow, there are slight hints that winter is finally coming to an end. The temperature has warmed slightly, if you can call a temperature that is still in minus digits "warm", and there is more sunlight at the beginning and end of each day.

Now is the perfect time to start thinking about what you want to do in the garden this spring. If you are planning on growing some vegetables for the first time this year, you're not alone. Sales of vegetable seeds now outsell that of flower seeds.

Niki Jabbour, author of the book Ground Breaking Food Gardens, has become one of Canada's most popular gardening celebrities. Along with friend and garden writer Tara Nolan, Niki will be speaking next week on the inaugural day of Canada Blooms on the topic: Garden BFF's: How Edibles and Ornamentals Can Play Nicely Together.

Niki has lots great advice for novice veggie gardeners:

Pick the right site. The best place is a spot that receives plenty of sunshine- at least eight hours each day.

Consider your soil. If your soil is less-than-ideal, don't panic! Instead, build a raised bed to grow your vegetables, filling it with quality garden soil and compost.

Start small. I always tell novice veggie gardeners to keep it small! A manageable 4-by-8 foot raised bed or even a few pots of edibles will be much easier to care for than a large garden. Start with a handful of your favourite crops and once you've got a handle on planting, tending and harvesting, you can always decide to go bigger the following year.

Plant your menu. Grow what you like to eat.

In her book Groundbreaking Food Gardens, Niki collected 73 themed garden designs from a diverse and varied group of gardening experts. Each of the book's plans includes a profile of the contributor, the concept behind their design, a beautiful illustration and a plant list.

I am really looking forward to Canada Blooms next week. Touring the show floor and listening to Niki and Tara's talk on combining edibles and ornamentals promises to be perfect way to usher in a little spring.

Niki Jabbour and Tara Nolan will be speaking together at the Active Life Garden Solutions Theatre, Presentation Room, Hall B at 12 pm on March 13th. Their topic again is: Garden BFF's: How Edibles and Ornamentals Can Play Nicely Together.

Niki will also be speaking on the topic of her book Groundbreaking Food Gardens on the Unilock Celebrity Stage at 3pm on March 13th.

Niki is a garden writer and radio host from Halifax, Nova Scotia. In her first book, The Year Round Vegetable Gardener (Storey Publishing) Niki showed us it was possible to have homegrown, organic produce 365 days a year. Groundbreaking Food Gardens (also Storey Publishing) her second book, hopes to inspire the way you grow your garden.

Niki's radio show the Weekend Gardener airs live on news957.com and is also available in podcast form. Niki's work can also be found in Gardens East, Garden Making, Fine Gardening and Canadian Gardening magazines. Niki's blog is http://yearroundveggiegardener.blogspot.co

Tara Nolan is a freelance writer, editor and digital consultant. For over six years, Tara was web editor of Canadian Gardening.com. She is a member of the Canadian Garden Writers Association and is co-founder of the blog Savvy Gardening. Tara has written for many publications including the Toronto Star, Glow magazine, Elle Canada and Canadian Living. Presently, Tara working on her first gardening book.

Japanese Maples

The Beryl Ivey Knot Garden and Nature's Garden

My Garden: Summer into Fall

5 Ways to Dress-up a Basic Evergreen Wreath

Sharing Seeds

The Rock Garden, Part 1

The Rock Garden, Part 2: Planting Notes

Beekeeping Q & A with Duff and Donna Evers

Just a Few of the Resources Available:

Online Resources:

Little Dog Lost

The Rock Garden, Part 3: Creative Ways to Use Texture

Farewell to a Canadian Gardening Institution

Another Great British Gardening Series

Location, Location, Location

Two More Gardening Video Series

A Spring Valentine

A Rose Garden

The Lure of the Darkside

A Community Coming Together: The Enabling Garden

Stratford Garden Festival

Two Gardening BFF's Speak at Canada Blooms